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Premier drame : le Jourdain. Fleuve frontiere entre la Jordanie et Israel, m'avait-on dit. Du coup, je l'avais un peu fantasme, ce fleuve. Bigre, pour faire frontiere, ca devait etre un sacre fleuve! Je m'etais meme permis quelques blagues de mauvais gout - en prive - sur la traversee a la nage que j'envisageais en cas de refoulement par les israeliens. Et puis le nom du pont suppose l'enjamber : le King Hussein Bridge! Ca a de l'allure, non?
Et bien, en guise de fleuve, je n'ai...rien vu. Pourtant, je vous assure, je suis passe dessus. Je n'ai pas vu une goute d'eau. Tout au plus, apres quelques kilometres de desert, une bande un peu plus verte. Le pont, 1/10eme de notre Pont de Pierre. Un fleuve qui n'est plus qu'un ru (accent circonflexe requis).
Second drame : c'est un probleme mathematique. Prenez 4 canadiens, dont trois jeunes freres et soeurs, deux americains et un francais. Posez les a la meme heure au premier poste frontiere jordanien. Attendez a la sortie. Premier (2h30) : le francais (ouaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaais!), suivi de pres d'un americain et d'un canadien (2h45). Attendez encore... Encore... En faites, peut-etre vous attendriez encore. Je suis parti a H+3h30, avant la sortie des 3 canadiens et de l'americain manquants. Leur tort : des bonnes tetes d'arabes. Et une tres mauvaise preparation dans le cas des trois freres et soeurs qui allaient voir de la famille a Bethleem, et debarquaient completement, se perdant dans nos interrogatoires successifs, cachant mal leur anxiete. J'espere qu'ils seront finalement passes. Je ne vous parle meme pas de la situation des Palestiniens sans papiers etrangers, puisque j'ai ete separe d'eux. Pour ce que j'en ai vu, c'est le meme genre d'endroit qu'Erez, qui separe la bande de Gaza d'Israel : un endroit enorme, ou la surveillance est partout (sympa, les Israeliens habilles en civil qui se balladent au milieu des gens...mais oreillette pas tres discrete), et ou les bebes pleurent, les mamans s'enervent, les vieux s'essoufflent...
En ce qui me concerne, donc, un sans faute, avec les couleurs gagnantes pour mon bagage et pour mon passeport. Une gestion parfaite du:
" Will you go to West Bank?
- Where?
- West Bank, you know...
- NO NO NO my god!"
Puis c'est la traversee du desert, quelques camps de bedouins sans vie sur le bord de la route, premier checkpoint, Jerusalem, deuxieme checkpoint, Ramallah, dormir, dormir, parce que ce passage, malgre tout, reste un moment de stress intense.
Ce soir, peut etre une conference a Jericho. Ou peut-etre un narguile a Ramallah.
Et demain on passe aux choses serieuses.
Premier drame : le Jourdain. Fleuve frontiere entre la Jordanie et Israel, m'avait-on dit. Du coup, je l'avais un peu fantasme, ce fleuve. Bigre, pour faire frontiere, ca devait etre un sacre fleuve! Je m'etais meme permis quelques blagues de mauvais gout - en prive - sur la traversee a la nage que j'envisageais en cas de refoulement par les israeliens. Et puis le nom du pont suppose l'enjamber : le King Hussein Bridge! Ca a de l'allure, non?
Et bien, en guise de fleuve, je n'ai...rien vu. Pourtant, je vous assure, je suis passe dessus. Je n'ai pas vu une goute d'eau. Tout au plus, apres quelques kilometres de desert, une bande un peu plus verte. Le pont, 1/10eme de notre Pont de Pierre. Un fleuve qui n'est plus qu'un ru (accent circonflexe requis).
Second drame : c'est un probleme mathematique. Prenez 4 canadiens, dont trois jeunes freres et soeurs, deux americains et un francais. Posez les a la meme heure au premier poste frontiere jordanien. Attendez a la sortie. Premier (2h30) : le francais (ouaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaais!), suivi de pres d'un americain et d'un canadien (2h45). Attendez encore... Encore... En faites, peut-etre vous attendriez encore. Je suis parti a H+3h30, avant la sortie des 3 canadiens et de l'americain manquants. Leur tort : des bonnes tetes d'arabes. Et une tres mauvaise preparation dans le cas des trois freres et soeurs qui allaient voir de la famille a Bethleem, et debarquaient completement, se perdant dans nos interrogatoires successifs, cachant mal leur anxiete. J'espere qu'ils seront finalement passes. Je ne vous parle meme pas de la situation des Palestiniens sans papiers etrangers, puisque j'ai ete separe d'eux. Pour ce que j'en ai vu, c'est le meme genre d'endroit qu'Erez, qui separe la bande de Gaza d'Israel : un endroit enorme, ou la surveillance est partout (sympa, les Israeliens habilles en civil qui se balladent au milieu des gens...mais oreillette pas tres discrete), et ou les bebes pleurent, les mamans s'enervent, les vieux s'essoufflent...
En ce qui me concerne, donc, un sans faute, avec les couleurs gagnantes pour mon bagage et pour mon passeport. Une gestion parfaite du:
" Will you go to West Bank?
- Where?
- West Bank, you know...
- NO NO NO my god!"
Puis c'est la traversee du desert, quelques camps de bedouins sans vie sur le bord de la route, premier checkpoint, Jerusalem, deuxieme checkpoint, Ramallah, dormir, dormir, parce que ce passage, malgre tout, reste un moment de stress intense.
Ce soir, peut etre une conference a Jericho. Ou peut-etre un narguile a Ramallah.
Et demain on passe aux choses serieuses.
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